Dining Review: Manchego

2518 Main Street
Santa Monica, CA 90405
310-450-3900
manchegosm.com

By MERV HECHT | Restaurant Critic

After tiring of the usual Italian, Thai, Mexican and Japanese options, I decided to host a family gathering at a Spanish restaurant for a change.

I tried to book a table for seven at Manchego at 6 p.m., but the online system required a credit card up front—only to inform me they couldn’t seat all seven together. We ended up reserving two tables, one for four and one for three.

When we arrived, however, the manager kindly seated us together in a “back room” at a comfortable table for seven. The room featured a waterfall, and the occasional cool droplet added a refreshing touch—a perk you miss with online reservations.

Manchego offers a well-curated menu with a range of authentic Spanish dishes and a reasonably priced wine list that includes various Spanish wines. I appreciated the selection of grapes from different regions, including several Tempranillos, a Grenache and more. I didn’t sample any since I’d brought an Oregon Pinot Noir, but we tried a variety of dishes.

The Serrano ham was as good as any I’ve had in Spain, and the crispy croquettes were excellent. Our main courses included a tender beef rib on creamy polenta, which came with a delicious sauce but was a bit salty for our taste. The beet salad was a favorite, and the Brussels sprouts were easily the best we’ve ever had.

The main event for me was the paella. While it was nicely presented, with a few shrimp peeking through the saffron-colored rice, I was hoping for fluffier rice and a broader variety of proteins, such as shrimp, chicken, duck, octopus or scallops. Though we enjoyed the flavors, I wouldn’t return for the paella alone.

For dessert, we indulged in the flan, flourless chocolate cake and, of course, churros with melted chocolate—they were delicious.

Manchego is owned by a Jewish Persian gentleman who lived in Spain, and he’s done a great job capturing the essence of Spanish cuisine. The menu is authentic and varied, the waitstaff are friendly and attentive, and the wine list is both interesting and affordable. I’d hoped to meet the owner in person, though he wasn’t there during our visit. Hopefully next time.

Merv Hecht, like many Harvard Law School graduates, went into the wine business after law. In 1988, he began writing restaurant reviews and books. His latest book, “The Instant Wine Connoisseur, 3rd edition,” is available on Amazon. He currently works for several companies that source and distribute food and wine products internationally. Send comments to mervynhecht@yahoo.com.