Hank’s

1033 Swarthmore Avenue
Pacific Palisades, CA 90272
424-363-7166
hankspalisades.com

By MERV HECHT | Restaurant Critic

You have to hand it to the Caruso team: Palisades Village just gets better and better.

Shortly after I wrote a non-favorable review of the pseudo-pizza restaurant that opened up, it closed, and a very acceptable pizza establishment, Jemma Pizzeria, took over the space. That was one important improvement because pizza has become a way of life in our cultural cuisine.

And after I wrote several negative articles about Hank’s, Hank’s was remodeled, turned over to the gentleman who owns Angelini’s (perhaps the best restaurant in Pacific Palisades to my taste) and a new menu appeared, which includes BBQ Baby Back Ribs as I suggested.

But it’s not just the Baby Back Ribs (BBQ glazed baby back ribs, served with tangy cabbage slaw), the whole menu has improved and the quality of the food enhanced to where we plan to eat there at least once per month.

The Grilled Artichokes come with a delicious remoulade dipping sauce, the Baby Back Ribs are well marinated and the Herb Roasted Jidori Chicken (Japanese for “free range”), served with sweet corn, roasted mushrooms and chimichurri, is delicious.

Even the service has improved (although some more training could help), and the delicious Onion Rings were served quickly while still hot.

Other entrees on the menu include Hank’s Smashburger (single chuck patty, American cheese, onions, iceberg and “awesome sauce”), Crispy Chicken Sandwich (house made pickle, iceberg lettuce, beefsteak tomato and aioli) and Vegan Burger (mushroom, brown rice patty, niçoise olive tapenade and romesco on a vegan bun).

Among the Salads + Soups is French Onion Soup (caramelized onions in beef jus, country bread and Emmenthal cheese) and Palisades Chopped Salad (with mixed greens, walnuts, green apple, egg, tart cherries and a house vinaigrette).

OK, the prices are not for the weak of heart, especially the wine prices, but I’ll write a few more reviews with more specific criticisms of the wine list, and we have every reason to believe that improvement will follow.

Merv Hecht, like many Harvard Law School graduates, went into the wine business after law. In 1988, he began writing restaurant reviews and books. His latest book, “The Instant Wine Connoisseur, 3d edition,” is available on Amazon. He currently works for several companies that source and distribute food and wine products internationally. Send comments to mervynhecht@yahoo.com.