RESTAURANT REVIEW: Malibu Farm

23000 Pacific Coast Highway (on the Malibu Pier)  |  Malibu, CA 90265  |  (310) 456-1112  |  www.malibu-farm.com  |  Price : $$

The pier often evokes memories of hours spent casting a line or gorging on fresh seafood, however, Malibu Farm has introduced a new narrative to an afternoon spent at the shore. Proprietor Helen Henderson, who prefers terra firma, has brought the exploits of the soil to the sea.

What began as a pop-up, having grown “organically” from Henderson’s cooking classes and catering business, is now officially a licensed restaurant. Positioned at the very end of Malibu Pier, in the former Ruby’s Diner location, Malibu Farm sources locally grown food from One Gun Ranch, Thorne Family Farm, Maggie’s Farm and Henderson’s own Malibu Farm in Point Dume.

One sunny afternoon my girlfriend Julie secured two seats at a communal table while I lined up to place our order. Malibu Farm adheres to the “fast-casual” concept, combining limited table service with high-quality food.It can be a confusing experience the first time around. In fact, the actress Juliette Lewis seemed a little exasperated when she mistook me for a waitress as I approached the line.

Here’s the drill for lunch or breakfast (dinner is by reservation only). Line up at the entrance – be prepared for a rather lengthy queue – to place your order at the register station under the blackboard menu. After you pay you are given a number to place at your table. Food will be delivered to you, and your plates will be cleared when you’re finished.

Henderson’s menu is dictated by the bounty of the season, and her Swedish roots influence the small plates concept – think “smorgasbord.”  Beer and wine are served, including a compelling list of summer sangrias if you are able to sip wine in the afternoon without requiring a siesta afterwards. Julie and I kept our order minimal in anticipation of dessert. Although the Vegan Coconut Dish with Tofu + Veggies intrigued us, we opted for an order of Crab Cakes + Capers Aioli and Kale Caesar Salad. 

The crab cakes were tasty, but we weren’t fond of the texture. The crab was very finely ground creating a somewhat spongy structure. What can I say? We prefer lumps in our crab cakes. The silky caper aioli had just the right amount of tang and did its best to elevate the little fried medallions. They were served on a bed of peppery arugula lightly dressed. Henderson scattered a few new potatoes about the plate in true Swedish fashion.

The Kale Caesar salad came with a surprising abundance of anchovy – beware if you aren’t fond of anchovy. The salad was perfectly dressed, very flavorful, crisp and fresh as could be. In a nod to the more traditional version of Caesar salad, Romaine lettuce was added, however, it didn’t bring anything to the dish. The salad was absent of croutons, which would have been a great conduit for the tasty anchovy-centric dressing, however there was plenty of Parmesan. All the meals were beautifully plated.

While we were enjoying our lunch, we noticed small metal planters filled with tall grass being delivered to a table with a few young ones. Upon closer inspection we discovered skewered corn dogs were tucked among the grass. It was a very whimsical presentation of a pier favorite. The kids were beaming.

I braved the line a second time to order dessert. Lining the counter were rows of clear glass mugs capped by metal filters. They contained Vietnamese-style coffee with sweetened condensed milk. We savored a few sips of the hand-dripped brew.

A giant triangular slice of warm Grilled Chocolate Cake was delivered to the table. How does a grilled cake differ from a traditional oven-baked cake? A thicker crust and a hint of smokiness were the two most distinguishable features. It was a harmonious compliment to the rustic nature of the menu. Henderson really understands how to bring the farm to the pier – and the foodies have followed.