RESTAURANT REVIEW: Rivabella Ristorante

9201 West Sunset Blvd. | West Hollywood, CA 90069 | 310-278-2060 | www.rivabellarestaurant.com | Prices: $$$

By ANGELA DE FELICE | Food and Style Writer

The enclosed patio at RivaBella is worlds away from the Hollywood scene just a block or so east. The blazing fire in the brick fireplace, glowing lamps and cozy banquets lend an air of warmth and rusticity – while the retractable roof, which is the largest of its kind in all of LA, is a pretty sophisticated way to keep it all under wraps.

What separates RivaBella from most Italian fine dining establishments in the area is Chef Luigi Fineo’s fresh and modern approach to the culinary genre. The cuisine, like the décor, is a modern interpretation of time-honored Northern Italian pleasures. It wasn’t so much the two Michelin stars awarded Chef Luigi that thrilled me; it was his provenance – Puglia. If Puglia can produce a cheese like Burrata, imagine what kind of chef it can turn out?

Our sparkling aperitif paired with antipasti of green olives, hard cheese and salumi was the equivalent of a good stretch just before a marathon.

I would never have anticipated what came next: Coffee Crusted Tuna sliced thinly and served crudo, with slivers of Fuyu persimmon, radish and a black rice cracklin’. While the menu tends to lean toward signature dishes, seasonal items – like the Fuyu persimmon – make an appearance from time to time just to keep things fresh. An aromatic yuzu sauce brought all the flavors together. It was delicious and the slight Asian influence was indeed unexpected.

The following dish was far more traditional Italian fare. The Roasted Octopus served with Taggiasca olive, potato and salsa verde was incredibly tender and packed with flavor. Chef Luigi revealed his secret to achieving suppleness: the mollusk is placed in rapidly boiling water with wine corks to tenderize it before roasting.

As we let the octopus practically melt on our tongues, shallow bowls appeared with prosciutto and ragu wrapped with a ribbon of pasta. The Nested Nidi Pasta was a pretty package that really delivered. The Parmesan cream was rich but manageable thanks to the elegant portion. In the future I will have a nibble and pass it around the table.

The same goes for the Corn Agnolotti with black truffle, Parmesan and butter. These little pasta pockets were incredibly delicate and tasty, but again, a little on the rich side.

I prefer to get my “creamy fix” via a perfectly cooked risotto – I got my wish and then some. At RivaBella the risotto is finished tableside in the basin of a massive 24-month aged Parmegiano Reggiano wheel. The cheese melts into the steaming hot Porcini Risotto as it is carved out of the cavity. The saltiness of the cheese permeates the nutty mushroom-intense flavors of the al dente rice as you excitedly anticipate diving into your first bite.

Be cautious as you make your plan of attack. There is actually a way in which Italians eat risotto and it is with good reason. If you want to enjoy piping hot goodness until the last bite without scalding your mouth, eat in a circular motion from the edges of the mound until you reach the center. This tip has been passed down in my family for generations. Whether to use a spoon or a fork is still up for debate.

I would recommend the Filet Mignon as secondi. The flesh was perfectly seared on the outside, juicy and rare on the inside. Don’t expect a massive slab of meat – the portion is distinctly Italian. The sides vary from time to time. We enjoyed the filet served on a heated slate with crushed truffled potato, King Trumpet mushrooms, pickled cherries, Padron peppers and a smear of salsa verde.

The evening ended with “cronut meets eclaire” Sfogliatelle – deep-fried Danish dough filled with almond cream coated in a dark chocolate glaze. An even more exciting display of tableside preparation – ice cream – was made right before our very eyes with the use of liquid nitrogen. It was fun to watch and even more fun to eat. The vanilla bean ice cream was served with an assortment of six ingredients from chocolate pearls to candied pistachios. We had a little tableside show of our own as we customized and devoured killer sundaes.