RESTAURANT REVIEW: The Canyon Bistro

120 N. Topanga Blvd. | Topanga Canyon, CA 90290 | (310)454-7800 | www.canyonbistrotopanga.com | Prices:  $$

Topanga Canyon is more than a windy road with a hippie past. This bohemian enclave has been home to many artists, musicians, filmmakers and creative types over the decades. All too often, we Palisadians are just passing through on our way to other destinations.

One bright afternoon my coworker Ashley and I made The Canyon Bistro our journey’s end. Located in Pine Tree Circle – the newer of two strip malls located in the center of commerce – this French-American bistro serves lunch and dinner daily and brunch on Sundays.

Entranced by the undulating curves from our trip up the canyon, we took our perch on the patio. The tented ceiling shaded the cozy nook. While not completely immersed in nature, we did get the sense that nature in its entire rustic splendor was around us.

This is a quintessential Topanga experience – the ability to feel like you are worlds away from the city, while not actually being geographically far at all. The layers of stress fell away just as easily as the leaves from our Grilled Artichoke. As we dipped into the velvety lemon-garlic aioli, we plotted our next move.

I’ve heard the Yellowfin Tuna Tartare is a local favorite. My sister enjoyed a memorable Salad Nicoise not long ago. Plus, all the bistro staples – Croque Madame, Steak Frites and Mussels With Dijon and Saffron – were on the menu. Finally, it was the Seared Tuna Tartine that called out to me my like a bird chirping in my ear.

A tartine is basically an open-faced sandwich. This one was piled high with smoked jalepeno aioli, tomato, avocado, organic greens, bacon and of course, yellowfin tuna seared ever so gently.

In essence I was enjoying a “BLATT” with a French twist. My only objection was the grilled ciabatta bread was a little difficult to cut, and my tartine was no longer pristine.

Ashley was feeling the seafood vibe and decided to lace her fingers around The Sole Wrap. She was impressed by the moist flakiness of the fish, and felt the jalapeño aioli “added just the right amount of flavor.”

Owner Larry Cohen intuitively sent a Classic Crème Brûlée to end things on a sweet note. We tapped the light caramelized shell to reach the silky custard beneath. It was a very seductive dessert for a Tuesday afternoon.

As we were saying our farewells, Cohen told us a little about himself. He was Bette Midler’s Musical Director for eight years and he has assembled a trio of accomplished musicians to play in his jazz band. In the summer they play on the Bistro’s patio every other Friday. Ashley and I love live music and decided to book a reservation for four then and there.

When Friday evening rolled around we were all feeling listless but knowing we didn’t have far to drive, and feeling assured we were in for a good meal, we piled into the car. We placed our orders and began to unwind courtesy of Canyon Bistro’s “boutique wine list.” Among the offerings are an array of local wines (including a Topanga wine produced by locals Rebecca Romijn and Jerry O’Connell grown in Calabasas) and French wines, many available by the glass.

Just as everyone began to rave about his or her orders – the Organic Scottish Salmon served with Forbidden Black Rice was the hit of the evening – the music commenced.

There is a history of music in the Canyon; The Corral was the venue before it burned to the ground in 1986, never to be re-built. A roster of the fabled performers (and locals) reads like a list of inductees to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame: Etta James, Neil Young & Crazy Horse, Emmylou Harris, Canned Heat and The Eagles, to name a few.

Cohen’s jazz band is carrying on the tradition of world-class music in the Canyon. His wildly talented musicians – bassist Reggie Hamilton, drummer Joey Heredia and that particular evening’s vocalist Leslie Smith – have collectively played with Grammy winners such as Carole King, Seal, Phil Collins, Babyface and Poncho Sanchez.

Everyone should experience dinner on the candlelit patio on a summer Friday night when the Canyon is vibrating with the sound of music.