RESTAURANT REVIEW: West Restaurant at The Angeleno Hotel

170 N. Church Ln. | Los Angeles, CA 90049 | 310-481-7878 | westrestaurantla.com | Price: $$

By MICHAEL AUSHENKER | Contributing Writer

Photos by RICH SCHMITT | Staff Photographer

For a high-class meal, it doesn’t get any higher (literally) than West, located atop the Angeleno Hotel’s penthouse level on the 17th floor and looming high above the Sunset Boulevard overpass on the northwest corner of the 405 in the shadow of the Getty Center.

West’s history goes back nine years as part of a major overhaul after the long-running, nigh-iconic Holiday Inn was sold and revamped into the boutique hotel, Angeleno.

The refurbishing gave West its stylish art deco flourishes with sleek, marble bar counters and terrific wood-paneled ceiling and flooring.

About five years ago, Mark Beccaria and his partners bought the 265-room Angeleno, which today Scott Gordon runs as hotel manager while Executive Chef Laura Scollan runs the kitchen.

And now, brunch (Saturdays and Sundays from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m.) is a big thing here as West introduces a slew of new menus.

Replete with Bottomless Sangria—a tasty, house-made white sangria which packs a slippery punch that sneaks up on you—brunch at West will no doubt be an experience you will never forget.

We started with a cup of coffee and a tasty, buttery Croissant ($4) that felt just right as I gazed out over the 405.

Then came our full breakfast. Given a choice of Banana Waffle or Belgian Waffle (either, $14), we opted for the former, which came with bananas, covered in sweet caramel and scrumptious berries. We also ordered a plate of Crunchy Almond French Toast ($15), which arrived topped with yummy sliced strawberries and toasted coconut bits. Presentation on both looked outstanding and neither was overly sweet.

Smoked Salmon Benedict ($18) came with red onion, chives and a side of delicious Yukon potatoes. There’s also a Classic Benedict (Canadian bacon and a generous portion of citrus Hollandaise; $16), Florentine (eggs, spinach, Hollandaise; $14) and Egg White Greek Frittata ($14) to choose from.

Salad-wise, for $16, you can opt for Southwest Chicken Cobb or the New Yorker (tomato slices, capers, whipped cream cheese) salad. There’s also the Brentwood (organic greens, fruits and veggies, Champagne vinaigrette) for $12.

With our Steak & Eggs ($22), the well-done skirt steak complimented the scrambled eggs perfectly, while the West Burger ($16), armed with a layer of cheddar and caramelized onions on a brioche bun, looked the part of a mouthwateringly juicy gourmet hamburger without being too zesty. The shoestring fries accompaniment —very much the type of frites you’ll find in France—tasted parfait!

In addition to brunch, Executive Chef Laura Scollan creates a quarterly lunch and dinner menu to reflect each season. West also offers a weeklong happy hour (4 to 7 p.m.) with cheekily named crafted cocktails such as $@$! The 405 and Road Rage.

Enjoying West on a clear sunny morning was jaw-dropping, so imagine how this place must transform at night with that twinkling nocturnal City of Angels view.

The staff at West (and the Angeleno) are fantastic, friendly and attentive and the joint has atmosphere, style and hospitality galore. With service and a view like this, West could become the perfect, go-to brunch rendezvous and nightspot. (It seemed quite packed the day we dined there.)

Ironically, West does not actually face west. Perhaps the restaurant should be renamed South or, better yet, View, because above all, nursing a glass of sangria in a chic, modern, top-floor establishment with this kind of panoramic LA scenery is definitely a must–do.