The Cellar

Q: How can I help Ventura County recover from fires and mudslides?

Go wine tasting! The town of Ojai was surrounded by flames but untouched. Many of the businesses there are still emerging from recovery mode, so the locals will welcome your visit.

Each of the four tasting rooms in Ojai has a distinct personality, and all can be visited in one day.

The most venerable is The Ojai Vineyard, founded in 1983 by Adam Tolmach, who still makes the wines. The tasting room is spacious and comfortable, with a library of older vintages on the back wall that Ojai’s other rooms could seriously envy.

Tolmach started out specializing in Syrah, which he still makes as well as anyone in California. His Syrahs are rich and meaty, but generally light on their feet and fragrant. They also age well, as I found out from a special pouring of the 2001 Thompson Vineyard Syrah: It showed white pepper, olives and blueberries in a delicious and rounded texture.

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Grenache lovers will also find excellent bottles. On the weekends, manager Fabien Castel opens a flight of library wines, highly recommended.

Adam Tolmach’s assistant winemaker Dominic O’Reilly moved a mile westward in 2014 to assume duties at Topa Mountain Winery, one of Ojai’s newcomers. Owner Larry Guerra made it the largest tasting facility in town, with both indoor and outdoor spaces.

It’s dog- and child-friendly, with live music on the weekends and occasional food trucks. Don’t let all that fun distract you from the wines, however, which are worthy across the lineup.

One surprise is the Estate Barbera, from the owner’s property in the eastern valley. It shows bright cherry and pie notes in an age-worthy texture.

Casa Barranca Winery has the closest connections to Ojai, a tasting room in the town’s historic arcade and a distinctive approach to winemaking. Owner Bill Moses studied winemaking in Southern France before founding the winery in 1999.

He emphasizes an organic approach, using minimal or zero sulfites in the cellar; this shows in the bright, fresh fruit flavors and frequent herbal notes in the wines.

In the tasting room, you will likely meet manager Alysia Dewar, whose husband publishes the city’s weekly newspaper. If you join the wine club you get an invitation to the annual bash at the winery in the historic Casa Barranca Retreat House outside town, which is a 1909 Craftsman-style masterpiece by Charles and Henry Greene and a National Historic Landmark.

The youngest of Ojai’s tasting rooms is Majestic Oak, down a flight of steps opposite the historic arcade. They produce very small lots, as they are just getting established, but owners Andrew and Tara Lee Coble are committed to helping Ojai recover: They are donating 25 percent of the proceeds from their 2016 Red Blend, Ojai Strong, to fire relief.

If you go wine tasting in Ojai you too will be doing your part, while also having some fun. Download the Visit Ojai Directory for iPhone and get directions to these and other types of attractions.

This Month’s Recommended Wines: Tasted in Ojai

The Ojai Vineyard 2016 Chardonnay — Bien Nacido Vineyard Creamy, with ripe pear and gravelly notes. Balanced, with a briny finish. $31.50, at the tasting room

The Ojai Vineyard 2016 Grenache-Syrah — John Sebastiano Vineyard Led by sandalwood and cherry notes, this blend brings the best of its components to a medium-weight savory
texture. $41, at the tasting room

Topa Mountain Winery 2015 Blend 150 — Santa Barbara County A blend of three varieties, it shows focused cherry notes with a touch of black olive and a bright finish. $34, at the tasting room

Casa Barranca 2016 Organic Cabernet Sauvignon — Coquelicot Vineyard Deep garnet in color, this Cabernet has bright plum and baking spice notes in a juicy texture. $38, at the tasting room